The Rise of Small Scale Food Manufacturing: Brooklyn and Beyond

The increasingly visible effects of climate change have made the world more aware of unsustainable living practices and the need for innovative thinkers to create new methods to forge ahead into the future. Some of these thinkers, as unlikely as it may seem, are being found in some of the smallest of businesses: the small-scale food manufacturing industry. Though seemingly new and revolutionary, small-scale food manufacturing is simply taking a step back to the original—or dare we say vintage—production of food and honoring the art through specialization.

Back to the Basics

Breathing fresh air into the food industry, the millennial business plan is calling on New York’s abundance of makers to put their minds to creating quality food products on a small scale. At a time when big chains dominate the market, independent businesses are finding success in the need for simplicity in our food. Working on a small scale allows entrepreneurs to know their product inside and out, use real ingredients, and create a demand for a product low in quantity, but high in quality. In the past decade, the ideas being formed in farmers markets have launched into a city-wide demand and the industry is picking up speed.

Small Stars of Brooklyn

They may be small, but small food manufacturers in Brooklyn pack a big punch of popularity. The niche industry may never grow into huge companies, but that is exactly the reason they have gained such popularity. Among some of Brooklyn’s early shining stars sits Mast Brothers Chocolate Makers, a company formed in 2006 by brothers, Michael and Rick, experimenting in the kitchen. Their beans-to-bar product wrapped in hand-decorated paper has since become a Brooklyn staple. McClure’s Pickles began at roughly the same time, before the niche market had fully sprung into action. These companies helped spark the appetite and thus paved the way for the industry to bloom.Artisan entrepreneurs are doing exceedingly well in Brooklyn, and not just because of the artfully packaged goods, but because the products have been formed around the need for quality.People’s Pops began as an alternative to store-bought ice pops, using real fruit instead. The Brooklyn Salsa Company has gone even further in their pursuit of freshness by using conscious methods: only using ingredients that are New York State Certified Organic Produce, adding no preservatives, and sealing the jars by hand. Brooklyn Soda Works got tired of the high sugar content in sodas but loved the bubbly. They are now known for their range of experimental flavor combinations (such as grapefruit, jalapeno, and honey!) and use only natural ingredients. These are just a few of the bright ideas forming and more are popping up in Brooklyn everyday.Like Mast Brothers and McClure’s, a few other companies are retaining their Brooklyn roots while also growing a wider customer base nationally and even worldwide. Early Bird Granola, founded by Nekisia Davis, began as a side project selling at the Brooklyn Flea. Now, even Martha Stewart respects her methods and the products are found across the US and even in select places in Europe and Japan.

The Culture of Sharing

While small-scale food production is the ideal method, it is certainly not the most affordable. The growing population and rising costs of rent in New York City have discouraged many from planting their ideas, but during this desperate time, a great advantage has blossomed: the culture of sharing. Just as co-working space was popularized by the tech industry for startups to share workspace while they grow, the same is being revolutionized for craft food. A basic commercial kitchen can run over $50,000, but to add equipment, plumbing, electric, inspection, permit costs, and other necessities, the price can easily run up to at least a half a million dollars. For small-scale food production, this price often is prohibitive. Shared kitchens and food incubators allow craft startups to rent kitchen space by the hour, provide equipment, and create a network to bounce ideas around.Hana Kitchens Currently one of the more popular food incubators and co-working kitchens in Brooklyn, Hana Kitchens is open twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week, allowing members to work around the clock. Why so popular? Tenants rave about the equipment access and creative work environment. Small companies in the program can access large-scale equipment which helps maximize their production and can bounce ideas off of others working in the space. Ten kitchens are available for renting out in eight-hour shifts (prices ranging between $120-$180 a shift). In addition to the well-stocked equipment, Hana Kitchens offers mentorship and training which has helped businesses obtain licensing, necessary insurance, and advice on packaging, labeling and improving the overall attractiveness of products.Hot Bread KitchenThough HBK hails from Harlem, the incubator is more than just your average shared space. Founder Jessamyn Rodriguez has merged the incubator into a non-profit, dubbing it “the United Nations of bread.” The kitchen hosts a crew of international bakers preparing over thirty-five varieties of products, profits of which go to fund classes and training for the HBK participants. Rodriguez works with internationals to provide them with proper skills in culinary, computers, finance, and English to help them grow in the food industry. The official accelerator, HBK Incubates, was formed in 2011 of which Runner & Stone Bakery and Restaurant and Hella Bitters—both opening in Brooklyn—are both graduates.Incubators are helping to make the products a reality, but now where to sell? Fortunately, several markets have pounced on the idea of helping this industry grow and many have formed throughout neighborhoods in Brooklyn. New Amsterdam Market, Brooklyn Flea and Smorgasburg are all markets giving hundreds of new food entrepreneurs a chance to put their products on display and test out the waters.

Where to Go From Here

Craft food production is booming in Brooklyn, but is this trend something that will remain a New Yorker “thing,” or make a splash elsewhere? Now, over 400 food incubators have formed across the United States and according to the New York Times, many farm laborers are beginning small farms of their own to meet the demand for local food. The trend is here, along with the growing pains. A craft-centered market is an unstable land: risky, competitive, and expensive. But the demand remains and as the market grows, NYC has some steps to take to help craft manufacturers in Brooklyn start up and stay.More Space: According to Crain’s New York Business, out of forty Brooklyn artisanal food makers surveyed, 77% said they were unable to find a suitable place to set up their business. Finding a kitchen large enough to support food production is difficult in Brooklyn and the surrounding boroughs. Kitchen sharing and incubators are helping to combat this, but even these spaces fill up quickly and are competitive.Affordable Rent: For those fortunate enough to find a sufficient amount of space, affordability is a whole other animal. Steep prices are a reality, and products that would otherwise succeed in Brooklyn are beginning to move south to cities such as Philadelphia or Baltimore, where rent can be four to five times less expensive.Distribution Infrastructure: Though small food production potentially loses its title in national growth, a co-packer can greatly impact distribution for small companies. Now that the industry is impacting the economy, a specialized co-packing firm for craft products would benefit the community’s growth. It has been suggested by local companies that tax breaks, investor interest, and other incentives are necessary for attracting co-packing companies to Brooklyn.